re she had her wrist set and put in a cast. She was advised that her wrist would need surgery. On the 29th, Kathleen returned to Canada for surgery. Scott returned a week later after completing the Vipassana course. We’re back in Saskatoon! Needless to say, we were disappointed over the disruption to our travel plans, but we know there is a silver lining hidden in this turn of events. We haven’t given up on our plans, and we intend to resume our travels in some form once Kathleen’s wrist has healed. We’ll keep you posted as our plans develop and we're back on our way.
Monday, January 18, 2010
KATHLEEN TAKES A FALL!
On, December 23, the opening evening of the Vipassana course that we were conducting in Nairobi, Kenya, Kathleen slipped and fell during a heavy thunderstorm, breaking her wrist. She was taken to a nearby hospital, whe
re she had her wrist set and put in a cast. She was advised that her wrist would need surgery. On the 29th, Kathleen returned to Canada for surgery. Scott returned a week later after completing the Vipassana course. We’re back in Saskatoon! Needless to say, we were disappointed over the disruption to our travel plans, but we know there is a silver lining hidden in this turn of events. We haven’t given up on our plans, and we intend to resume our travels in some form once Kathleen’s wrist has healed. We’ll keep you posted as our plans develop and we're back on our way.
re she had her wrist set and put in a cast. She was advised that her wrist would need surgery. On the 29th, Kathleen returned to Canada for surgery. Scott returned a week later after completing the Vipassana course. We’re back in Saskatoon! Needless to say, we were disappointed over the disruption to our travel plans, but we know there is a silver lining hidden in this turn of events. We haven’t given up on our plans, and we intend to resume our travels in some form once Kathleen’s wrist has healed. We’ll keep you posted as our plans develop and we're back on our way.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Into (and Out of) Africa
We spent a memorable month of December in Kenya, where we went on a safari (see our January 13 blog posting) and conducted a 10-day Vipassana meditation course. During our time in Nairobi, we were graciously hosted by two delightful families. Both families have been instrumental in organizing Vipassana courses in Kenya.
For the first two weeks, we stayed with Dr. Michael Chung, his wife Viviane Chao, and their four-year-old son, Adrien. Michael and Viviane are both involved in work with HI
V. Michael has set up the Hope Center for Infectious Diseases which treats patients with HIV. He also does HIV research in Nairobi for the University of Washington. Viviane has been Kenya PEPFAR Deputy Country Director at the U.S. Embassy in Nairobi. PEPFAR is the President’s Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief, which provides funding to treat HIV patients in resource-strapped countries. Adrien is a budding musician who plays the violin and excels at the drums.
For the latter part of our time in Nairobi, we stayed with Kishor and Kusum Pindolia
, Kusum’s mother visiting from England, and Kishor and Kusum’s three children. Kishor is a successful businessman in the metals industry. Kusum was born in Uganda, spent part of her childhood in England, and moved to Kenya as an adult. The family maintains strong ties to their family roots in Gujarat, India. We enjoyed getting to know the family and were grateful recipients of the exquisite meals prepared by Kusum.
For the first two weeks, we stayed with Dr. Michael Chung, his wife Viviane Chao, and their four-year-old son, Adrien. Michael and Viviane are both involved in work with HI
V. Michael has set up the Hope Center for Infectious Diseases which treats patients with HIV. He also does HIV research in Nairobi for the University of Washington. Viviane has been Kenya PEPFAR Deputy Country Director at the U.S. Embassy in Nairobi. PEPFAR is the President’s Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief, which provides funding to treat HIV patients in resource-strapped countries. Adrien is a budding musician who plays the violin and excels at the drums.For the latter part of our time in Nairobi, we stayed with Kishor and Kusum Pindolia
, Kusum’s mother visiting from England, and Kishor and Kusum’s three children. Kishor is a successful businessman in the metals industry. Kusum was born in Uganda, spent part of her childhood in England, and moved to Kenya as an adult. The family maintains strong ties to their family roots in Gujarat, India. We enjoyed getting to know the family and were grateful recipients of the exquisite meals prepared by Kusum.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Kenya Safari
We arrived in Nairobi, Kenya, on December 7. A week later we went on a seven-day camping safari. It was a phenomenal experience seeing the amazing African anima
ls in their natural habitat. We visited Samburu National Reserve, lakes in the Great Rift Valley, and Masai Mara National Reserve. We saw our first lion, a female which emerged from the brush and walked right in front of our vehicle, as we drove through Samburu Park to our campsite on the first evening. Over the next week we saw an incredible variety of animals.
Seeing a bull elephant flaring its ears as it walked toward us took our breaths away. Seeing two young male lions licking each other in the shade reminded us of our kitties at home, but we also knew that stepping out of the vehicle would have put our lives at risk. We didn’t anticipate the awe we felt seeing a mature male lion with full mane in the wild. (Click on a photo to enlarge it.)
Twice we were lucky enough to see leopards. These consummate predators spend much of their time hidden in trees or in the brush and are difficult to see. In Samburu, we watched a leopard carry a small antelope it had just killed back to its lair in a big tree. It stashed the kill up high and then settled down straddling a big branch to lick itself clean. Herds of graceful impalas, constantly on alert (with good reason!), were a common sight. We occasionally saw vervet monkeys, with their striking black faces. Vervets are known for their intelligence and for their adeptness at stealing food out of the hands of unsuspecting tourists. We saw many giraffes and were struck by how graceful they are despite their long legs and neck.
At the Great Rift Valley lakes, we saw large flocks of flamingos wading in the shallow waters. We were mesmerized by the stepping of hundreds of pink legs as the gaudy birds walked in unison. At Lake Nakuru, we saw the white rhino, the docile cousin of the black rhino. We also saw herds of zebras and African buffalos, also known as cape buffalos. African buffalo and black rhino (which we didn’t see) are two of the most dangerous animals in Africa. We took comfort in our guide’s reassurances that we were safe as long as we stayed in the vehicle.
Masai Mara is the northern extension in Kenya of Tanzania’s Serengeti. It’s famous for the huge wildebeest migration that occurs in July and August. Two to three million wildebeests come to feed on the tall grass that grows in Kenya after the monsoons. They then head south back into Tanzania. We walked down to the Mara River to see hippos, crocodiles, and one of the famous points where the wildebeests cross as they head south. The wildebeests are pursued by lions and other predators, and they are ambushed by crocodiles as they cross the river. The park ranger who accompanied us carried an automatic rifle for our protection (both hippos and crocodiles are very dangerous). On the grassy bank above the river he said, “If you come here at night, you would see very many animals, but I think you would not survive. “ At Masai Mara we were lucky to see cheetahs. The cheetah, the fastest land animal, can run as fast as 75 mph in short bursts. In comparison, the top speed for an impala is 55 mph. Groups of baboons were a common site and were morning visitors to our campsite. The big males can be dangerous, and we kept a watchful eye on them.
The equator passes through the middle of Kenya. At a crossing point, we paid a few Kenyan shillings to watch a local woman show us how water draining from a leaking vessel rotated counter-clockwise a few feet north of the equator and clockwise south of the equator (it took a few tries for her to get it right, and we refrained from challenging the experimental validity; instead we delighted in the unique experience). Our safari vehicle was a Toyota Land Cruiser that had seen years of use but handled the rough terrain of the rural roads admirably. Our driver and guide, George, was delightful and full of fascinating information about the wildlife. A nice bonus was his prowess at identifying birds (Kenya birding is fantastic). An activity we saw again and again as we traveled through rural Kenya was people (usually women) hauling water, often over long distances. Kenya had been experiencing devastating drought, and in some remote places the only source of water was a muddy puddle in a mostly dry river bed. At Lake Boringo, we met two girls who were carrying lake water home. Kathleen helped out for part of the way.
Kenya has over 40 tribes, and Kenyans identify strongly with their tribal origins. One of the most famous and fascinating tribes is the Masai. The Masai are cattle herders who have a close relationship with the land and its wildlife. The Masai are known for the bright colors they wear and for their fierceness. Traditionally, to pass into manhood, Masai males have undergone a ritual of killing a lion with a spear. Thankfully, this practice is less common than it used to be. However, seeing a lone Masai, armed only with knife and club, tending his herd of cattle on the Masai Mara plains as night descends makes one admire their bravery. It’s said that lions can distinguish Masai from other humans and will keep their distance from them (we wouldn’t command such feline respect, on the other hand).
We paid a visit to a Masai village just outside the park boundary. The villagers live in mud huts and practice polygamy. Cholera and malaria have been serious problems. Recently, however, with the help of a Canadian NGO the village has dug a well from which to draw clean water, drastically reducing the incidence of cholera (malaria is still a problem, however). Our guide through the village was a young man in traditional dress who had recently completed secondary school. His English was impeccable, and he intends to go to college and become a doctor. In addition, to knife and club, Masai warriors now carry mobile phones. A way of life that has existed for centuries is changing rapidly and will perhaps disappear within a generation or two.
We were grateful to have had an opportunity to witness Kenya’s unsurpassed land and wildlife and to come in contact with some of Africa’s remarkable people.
ls in their natural habitat. We visited Samburu National Reserve, lakes in the Great Rift Valley, and Masai Mara National Reserve. We saw our first lion, a female which emerged from the brush and walked right in front of our vehicle, as we drove through Samburu Park to our campsite on the first evening. Over the next week we saw an incredible variety of animals.Seeing a bull elephant flaring its ears as it walked toward us took our breaths away. Seeing two young male lions licking each other in the shade reminded us of our kitties at home, but we also knew that stepping out of the vehicle would have put our lives at risk. We didn’t anticipate the awe we felt seeing a mature male lion with full mane in the wild. (Click on a photo to enlarge it.)
Twice we were lucky enough to see leopards. These consummate predators spend much of their time hidden in trees or in the brush and are difficult to see. In Samburu, we watched a leopard carry a small antelope it had just killed back to its lair in a big tree. It stashed the kill up high and then settled down straddling a big branch to lick itself clean. Herds of graceful impalas, constantly on alert (with good reason!), were a common sight. We occasionally saw vervet monkeys, with their striking black faces. Vervets are known for their intelligence and for their adeptness at stealing food out of the hands of unsuspecting tourists. We saw many giraffes and were struck by how graceful they are despite their long legs and neck.
At the Great Rift Valley lakes, we saw large flocks of flamingos wading in the shallow waters. We were mesmerized by the stepping of hundreds of pink legs as the gaudy birds walked in unison. At Lake Nakuru, we saw the white rhino, the docile cousin of the black rhino. We also saw herds of zebras and African buffalos, also known as cape buffalos. African buffalo and black rhino (which we didn’t see) are two of the most dangerous animals in Africa. We took comfort in our guide’s reassurances that we were safe as long as we stayed in the vehicle.
Masai Mara is the northern extension in Kenya of Tanzania’s Serengeti. It’s famous for the huge wildebeest migration that occurs in July and August. Two to three million wildebeests come to feed on the tall grass that grows in Kenya after the monsoons. They then head south back into Tanzania. We walked down to the Mara River to see hippos, crocodiles, and one of the famous points where the wildebeests cross as they head south. The wildebeests are pursued by lions and other predators, and they are ambushed by crocodiles as they cross the river. The park ranger who accompanied us carried an automatic rifle for our protection (both hippos and crocodiles are very dangerous). On the grassy bank above the river he said, “If you come here at night, you would see very many animals, but I think you would not survive. “ At Masai Mara we were lucky to see cheetahs. The cheetah, the fastest land animal, can run as fast as 75 mph in short bursts. In comparison, the top speed for an impala is 55 mph. Groups of baboons were a common site and were morning visitors to our campsite. The big males can be dangerous, and we kept a watchful eye on them.
The equator passes through the middle of Kenya. At a crossing point, we paid a few Kenyan shillings to watch a local woman show us how water draining from a leaking vessel rotated counter-clockwise a few feet north of the equator and clockwise south of the equator (it took a few tries for her to get it right, and we refrained from challenging the experimental validity; instead we delighted in the unique experience). Our safari vehicle was a Toyota Land Cruiser that had seen years of use but handled the rough terrain of the rural roads admirably. Our driver and guide, George, was delightful and full of fascinating information about the wildlife. A nice bonus was his prowess at identifying birds (Kenya birding is fantastic). An activity we saw again and again as we traveled through rural Kenya was people (usually women) hauling water, often over long distances. Kenya had been experiencing devastating drought, and in some remote places the only source of water was a muddy puddle in a mostly dry river bed. At Lake Boringo, we met two girls who were carrying lake water home. Kathleen helped out for part of the way.
Kenya has over 40 tribes, and Kenyans identify strongly with their tribal origins. One of the most famous and fascinating tribes is the Masai. The Masai are cattle herders who have a close relationship with the land and its wildlife. The Masai are known for the bright colors they wear and for their fierceness. Traditionally, to pass into manhood, Masai males have undergone a ritual of killing a lion with a spear. Thankfully, this practice is less common than it used to be. However, seeing a lone Masai, armed only with knife and club, tending his herd of cattle on the Masai Mara plains as night descends makes one admire their bravery. It’s said that lions can distinguish Masai from other humans and will keep their distance from them (we wouldn’t command such feline respect, on the other hand).
We paid a visit to a Masai village just outside the park boundary. The villagers live in mud huts and practice polygamy. Cholera and malaria have been serious problems. Recently, however, with the help of a Canadian NGO the village has dug a well from which to draw clean water, drastically reducing the incidence of cholera (malaria is still a problem, however). Our guide through the village was a young man in traditional dress who had recently completed secondary school. His English was impeccable, and he intends to go to college and become a doctor. In addition, to knife and club, Masai warriors now carry mobile phones. A way of life that has existed for centuries is changing rapidly and will perhaps disappear within a generation or two.
We were grateful to have had an opportunity to witness Kenya’s unsurpassed land and wildlife and to come in contact with some of Africa’s remarkable people.
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Happy Holidays from Africa
We want to take this opportunity to express our gratitude for family and friends. Love and best wishes to you all for a joyous Holiday Season.
(Click on the picture to enlarge it.)
Sunday, December 13, 2009
The Toughest Month We Ever Loved
"The toughest month we ever loved,” to borrow from the Peace Corps slogan (“the 
toughest job you’ll ever love”). That was our month of November, which we spent at a 30-day meditation retreat at the Vipassana International Academy in Igatpuri, India (http://www.dhamma.org/). Vipassana is the meditation that was practiced and taught by the Buddha. It’s remarkably simple (focus your attention on the breath or on sensations on the body), very difficult (the mind doesn’t want to settle down and focus for long periods), and profoundly rewarding. The clarity, insights, and peace of mind we gained were incredible. It was a wonderful way to start our six-month journey and we were grateful for the time to be there.
We returned to the steamy, busy streets of downtown Bombay before flying to Kenya . The hectic street life and traffic were daunting after the peace and quiet we had enjoyed at the retreat. Nonetheless, Mumbai is a fascinating place, with all of the remarkable sights, sounds, and smells of India. New office buildings, fancy cars, and people in western garb are interspersed with women in saris, street people, decaying buildings, slums, and aging taxis and trucks.
toughest job you’ll ever love”). That was our month of November, which we spent at a 30-day meditation retreat at the Vipassana International Academy in Igatpuri, India (http://www.dhamma.org/). Vipassana is the meditation that was practiced and taught by the Buddha. It’s remarkably simple (focus your attention on the breath or on sensations on the body), very difficult (the mind doesn’t want to settle down and focus for long periods), and profoundly rewarding. The clarity, insights, and peace of mind we gained were incredible. It was a wonderful way to start our six-month journey and we were grateful for the time to be there.
During the retreat, a cyclone that blew in from the Indian Ocean grazed the area. Winds over 60 mph blew down about 100 trees at the meditation center. It was frightening at times, but fortunately, there was no serious damage and the retreat proceeded uninterrupted.
After the retreat we decided to spend two days in the town of Igatpuri to relax and get reacquainted after going through such a powerful meditation experience. It was a welcome breather before returning to the intensity of Mumbai. Igatpuri is a small but vibrant town about 80 miles from Mumbai. We took time to relax, eat good Indian food, get a haircut (Scott), and check out the various vendors, including one selling a Michael Jackson t-shirt.
We returned to the steamy, busy streets of downtown Bombay before flying to Kenya . The hectic street life and traffic were daunting after the peace and quiet we had enjoyed at the retreat. Nonetheless, Mumbai is a fascinating place, with all of the remarkable sights, sounds, and smells of India. New office buildings, fancy cars, and people in western garb are interspersed with women in saris, street people, decaying buildings, slums, and aging taxis and trucks.
The taxi driver who took us to the airport for our flight to Kenya doubled as a tour guide. He pointed out the various types of regional dress that identify where a woman is from and her position in life. For example, a woman who drapes the top part of her sari on her right shoulder is from the state of Gujurat, and a woman who drapes the sari on her left shoulder is from Maharashtra (Mumbai’s state). A woman with a salwar khamis (tunic and loose drawstring pants) is from Pakistan and dresses more modestly. The sari of a fisher woman is also of a particular style. With the westernization that has taken place in India, a man’s dress is no longer a reliable indicator of where he is from. As globalization takes hold, the loss of heritage and traditions is sad, although freedoms and opportunities probably go with it. (For more information on wrapping a sari, go to www.utsavsarees.com/saree/wearsari.htm.)
Next stop: Nairobi.
Friday, October 30, 2009
Arrived in Mumbai
We arrived on Tuesday after almost 24 hours of travel (via Frankfurt). We’re staying at the Lawrence Hotel – a humble and modest hotel near the main bazaar and tourist shopping areas.
There are noticeable changes since we came to India four years ago. India is taking its place as a world leader in business, entertainment (“Bollywood”), and other areas. “India isn’t running into the future – it’s galloping,” says the CEO of one of India’s biggest corporations. Members of the growing middle class stand out in contrast to the multitudes in the lower classes. We recently heard that India’s middle class numbers 300 million—almost the size of the U.S. population (its total population is over 1 billion). 
It’s hot here – in the 80s and 90’s; and this is the “cool” time of year! India’s had a serious drought this year, and there’s concern about water usage. Mumbai depends on three lakes for its water supply, and they’re drying up. The city has mandated a 20% water cut, which may be increased to as much as 50-60% until the monsoons return next summer.
We’re adapting to the difference in climate, culture, and food. The food is easy—it’s fantastic.
Tomorrow we’re off to a 30-day meditation retreat about three hours outside of Mumbai. We’ll be in touch after the retreat.
Friday, October 23, 2009
It’s not every day that you sell your beloved house, leave a great job (Scott) and art community (Kathleen), and say goodbye to dear friends to create a new life elsewhere, but tha
t’s what we did in July of this year. At times we wondered if we were crazy to give up our secure life in Seattle and venture into the unknown in the midst of a historically bad economy. We knew, though, that we’d wanted to move to Canada for a long time, and now seemed like the time. So we sold the house, wrapped things up at work, hugged our friends goodbye, and headed north.
t’s what we did in July of this year. At times we wondered if we were crazy to give up our secure life in Seattle and venture into the unknown in the midst of a historically bad economy. We knew, though, that we’d wanted to move to Canada for a long time, and now seemed like the time. So we sold the house, wrapped things up at work, hugged our friends goodbye, and headed north.
But our plans didn’t stop there. We thought that, since we’d be going through big changes anyway, why not take advantage of the transition to do some extended travel before we find work and settle in Canada. Thus were born our plans to travel for six months in Asia and Africa—including India, Kenya, Thailand, Burma, Laos, and Cambodia.
Before embarking on our Asian/African odyssey, we’ve spent three months in Sa
skatoon, Saskatchewan – Kathleen’s hometown. Moving to a new country, we’ve had lots of loose ends to tie up, such as registering for health care, changing driver’s licenses, and Scott applying for a social insurance card and waiting for his final immigration documents to arrive. It’s been good to have these months to get things in order and to spend time with Kathleen’s family and old friends.
Before embarking on our Asian/African odyssey, we’ve spent three months in Sa
skatoon, Saskatchewan – Kathleen’s hometown. Moving to a new country, we’ve had lots of loose ends to tie up, such as registering for health care, changing driver’s licenses, and Scott applying for a social insurance card and waiting for his final immigration documents to arrive. It’s been good to have these months to get things in order and to spend time with Kathleen’s family and old friends. Saskatoon is a city of just over 200,000 with strong ties to the land and a more relaxed pace. The continuity of the generations is more apparent here, and there’s a strong sense of community. We run into people we know almost daily, and it’s still OK to drop in for a visit without calling ahead. We’ve been blessed by Kathleen’s family and relatives with their warmth and gracious welcoming. We’ve also enjoyed the beauty of fall in Saskatchewan. Flocks of migrating geese are everywhere, and there are even sightings of whooping cranes (still in danger of extinction). On the prairies that surround Saskatoon, fall is a magical time as families and neighbors work together to harvest the wheat, barley, canola and other crops that stretch for miles and miles.
Now, our pre-trip time in Saskatoon is coming to a close as our October 26 depa
rture date to Mumbai, India, fast approaches. With this blog we hope to share our adventures with our friends and family. We’ll post “snapshots” of our experiences as we visit new places and meet new and interesting people. We hope you enjoy it, and thanks for sharing in our adventures as we go on our way...
rture date to Mumbai, India, fast approaches. With this blog we hope to share our adventures with our friends and family. We’ll post “snapshots” of our experiences as we visit new places and meet new and interesting people. We hope you enjoy it, and thanks for sharing in our adventures as we go on our way...
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