Kenya Safari

We arrived in Nairobi, Kenya, on December 7. A week later we went on a seven-day camping safari. It was a phenomenal experience seeing the amazing African animals in their natural habitat. We visited Samburu National Reserve, lakes in the Great Rift Valley, and Masai Mara National Reserve. We saw our first lion, a female which emerged from the brush and walked right in front of our vehicle, as we drove through Samburu Park to our campsite on the first evening. Over the next week we saw an incredible variety of animals.

Seeing a bull elephant flaring its ears as it walked toward us took our breaths away. Seeing two young male lions licking each other in the shade reminded us of our kitties at home, but we also knew that stepping out of the vehicle would have put our lives at risk. We didn’t anticipate the awe we felt seeing a mature male lion with full mane in the wild. (Click on a photo to enlarge it.)




Twice we were lucky enough to see leopards. These consummate predators spend much of their time hidden in trees or in the brush and are difficult to see. In Samburu, we watched a leopard carry a small antelope it had just killed back to its lair in a big tree. It stashed the kill up high and then settled down straddling a big branch to lick itself clean. Herds of graceful impalas, constantly on alert (with good reason!), were a common sight. We occasionally saw vervet monkeys, with their striking black faces. Vervets are known for their intelligence and for their adeptness at stealing food out of the hands of unsuspecting tourists. We saw many giraffes and were struck by how graceful they are despite their long legs and neck.




At the Great Rift Valley lakes, we saw large flocks of flamingos wading in the shallow waters. We were mesmerized by the stepping of hundreds of pink legs as the gaudy birds walked in unison. At Lake Nakuru, we saw the white rhino, the docile cousin of the black rhino. We also saw herds of zebras and African buffalos, also known as cape buffalos. African buffalo and black rhino (which we didn’t see) are two of the most dangerous animals in Africa. We took comfort in our guide’s reassurances that we were safe as long as we stayed in the vehicle.




Masai Mara is the northern extension in Kenya of Tanzania’s Serengeti. It’s famous for the huge wildebeest migration that occurs in July and August. Two to three million wildebeests come to feed on the tall grass that grows in Kenya after the monsoons. They then head south back into Tanzania. We walked down to the Mara River to see hippos, crocodiles, and one of the famous points where the wildebeests cross as they head south. The wildebeests are pursued by lions and other predators, and they are ambushed by crocodiles as they cross the river. The park ranger who accompanied us carried an automatic rifle for our protection (both hippos and crocodiles are very dangerous). On the grassy bank above the river he said, “If you come here at night, you would see very many animals, but I think you would not survive. “ At Masai Mara we were lucky to see cheetahs. The cheetah, the fastest land animal, can run as fast as 75 mph in short bursts. In comparison, the top speed for an impala is 55 mph. Groups of baboons were a common site and were morning visitors to our campsite. The big males can be dangerous, and we kept a watchful eye on them.



The equator passes through the middle of Kenya. At a crossing point, we paid a few Kenyan shillings to watch a local woman show us how water draining from a leaking vessel rotated counter-clockwise a few feet north of the equator and clockwise south of the equator (it took a few tries for her to get it right, and we refrained from challenging the experimental validity; instead we delighted in the unique experience). Our safari vehicle was a Toyota Land Cruiser that had seen years of use but handled the rough terrain of the rural roads admirably. Our driver and guide, George, was delightful and full of fascinating information about the wildlife. A nice bonus was his prowess at identifying birds (Kenya birding is fantastic). An activity we saw again and again as we traveled through rural Kenya was people (usually women) hauling water, often over long distances. Kenya had been experiencing devastating drought, and in some remote places the only source of water was a muddy puddle in a mostly dry river bed. At Lake Boringo, we met two girls who were carrying lake water home. Kathleen helped out for part of the way.




Kenya has over 40 tribes, and Kenyans identify strongly with their tribal origins. One of the most famous and fascinating tribes is the Masai. The Masai are cattle herders who have a close relationship with the land and its wildlife. The Masai are known for the bright colors they wear and for their fierceness. Traditionally, to pass into manhood, Masai males have undergone a ritual of killing a lion with a spear. Thankfully, this practice is less common than it used to be. However, seeing a lone Masai, armed only with knife and club, tending his herd of cattle on the Masai Mara plains as night descends makes one admire their bravery. It’s said that lions can distinguish Masai from other humans and will keep their distance from them (we wouldn’t command such feline respect, on the other hand).

We paid a visit to a Masai village just outside the park boundary. The villagers live in mud huts and practice polygamy. Cholera and malaria have been serious problems. Recently, however, with the help of a Canadian NGO the village has dug a well from which to draw clean water, drastically reducing the incidence of cholera (malaria is still a problem, however). Our guide through the village was a young man in traditional dress who had recently completed secondary school. His English was impeccable, and he intends to go to college and become a doctor. In addition, to knife and club, Masai warriors now carry mobile phones. A way of life that has existed for centuries is changing rapidly and will perhaps disappear within a generation or two.



We were grateful to have had an opportunity to witness Kenya’s unsurpassed land and wildlife and to come in contact with some of Africa’s remarkable people.